A Timeless Journey: Riding the MAV Corona from Budapest to Brasov
Embarking on a rail adventure across Eastern Europe offers a unique perspective on changing landscapes and cultures. The MAV Corona, a night train connecting Budapest, Hungary, and Brasov, Romania, promises a journey that’s less about speed and more about the experience – a nostalgic trip back in time. This 803-kilometre voyage, taking approximately 15 hours and 20 minutes, runs daily, departing Budapest at 17:40, and offers a chance to experience a bygone era of train travel.
Arriving in Style at Budapest-Keleti
My journey began at the magnificent Budapest-Keleti station, a grand 19th-century edifice that immediately sets a tone of historical significance. With its soaring ceilings, ornate statuary, and impressive marble pillars, the station itself is a destination. Arriving two hours before my departure, I headed to Platform 9 to access the Premium Lounge, a perk for first-class and sleeper ticket holders of Hungarian rail company MAV. Inside, the lounge provided a comfortable respite, allowing me to enjoy a sandwich and coffee while anticipating the rail adventure ahead.
The Corona: A Communist-Era Survivor
Finding the blue-and-white Corona on Platform 2 felt like stepping onto a piece of living history. This train is a testament to the communist era, a night train that has gracefully endured. It boasts a mix of seating and sleeping carriages, with options ranging from three-berth compartments to four- and six-bed couchettes. Perhaps most impressively, it features a genuine dining car – a rare and cherished amenity in today’s world of streamlined cafe-bars on trains. A friendly attendant, Anikó, greeted me and guided me to my compartment.
A Private Sanctuary: The “Single” Compartment
For this journey, I opted for a “Single” compartment, a private cabin for myself, secured for an additional €70 (approximately $117) supplement to my Eurail pass. The compartment was surprisingly well-equipped. It included a comfortable bed, a washbasin with a convenient table lid, and a cupboard stocked with complimentary snacks – nuts, chocolate, water, and apple juice. To my pleasant surprise, there were also modern amenities like a power point and two USB-A charging ports. Space for hanging clothes was available behind some rather unique purple drapes. The interior was enhanced by attractive wood panelling, adding a distinct retro charm. As it was still afternoon, I asked Anikó to reconfigure the bed into its seating arrangement. The plush, reddish-purple upholstery of the seats, which perfectly complemented the carpet, made for a cosy spot to relax.
The Heart of the Train: A Culinary Voyage in the Dining Car
The true star of the MAV Corona, however, is undoubtedly its dining car. Stepping inside is like entering a scene from the 1960s. Tables adorned with red-and-white cloths, comfortable blue booth seating, and elegant gold-trimmed lamps, all set against subtle beige curtains, evoke a sense of Cold War chic. The onboard chefs take pride in preparing a menu that showcases authentic Hungarian cuisine, complete with beautifully illustrated photos of each dish.
For dinner, I indulged in a hearty bowl of goulash soup, followed by a rich pork ragu served with fusilli pasta, prepared in the traditional style of Hungary’s mountainous Bakony region. Other enticing options on the menu included paprika chicken with dumplings, roast pork accompanied by letcho (a flavourful capsicum-based stew), and a comforting lentil casserole. For dessert, I was tempted by a delightful sponge cake from the Somlo region. I savoured a local beer, watching the vast Hungarian plains drift by outside the window. The next morning, I returned to the dining car for a hot breakfast, included with my ticket, as the train meandered through the atmospheric early-morning mists of Transylvania.
Practicalities for the Savvy Traveller
When it comes to luggage, MAV is quite generous, allowing passengers up to three items without strict weight or size restrictions. However, travellers should be mindful that they will need to manage their own bags up and down the relatively low platforms. Therefore, it’s advisable to pack lighter and avoid excessively large suitcases.
One More Thing…
Upon arrival at Brasov station, a convenient option for reaching the charming old town is the number 4 bus. Passengers can simply tap their credit card on the onboard validator to pay the fare, eliminating the need to purchase a ticket in advance.
The Price of Nostalgia
For those seeking the privacy of a compartment, the sole use of a “Single” compartment starts from €102 (approximately $170) if you don’t have a Eurail pass. Alternatively, sharing a compartment with one or two others reduces the cost to €72 or €59 per person, respectively. A bed in a couchette is even more affordable, starting at €46. While it’s possible to attempt booking tickets directly via MAV’s website (mavcsoport.hu) or Romanian Railways (cfrcalatori.ro), some travellers may find these platforms a bit frustrating to navigate. An alternative and often more straightforward method is to make your booking in person at a station in Hungary.
The Verdict: A Charming Blast from the Past
It’s important to be realistic: the MAV Corona is not a sleek, futuristic high-speed train like those found in Western Europe. Instead, it offers a charming and authentic blast from the past. Not all carriages are equipped with air conditioning, and the shared toilet facilities are perhaps not the most salubrious. However, for those who appreciate the romance of old-school train travel, a night aboard the Corona is a relatively inexpensive and utterly delightful experience. It’s a journey that prioritises atmosphere and nostalgia over modern conveniences, and for that, it earns a solid four stars.
Our rating out of five: ★★★★
