A Journey Through the Heart of Northern England
The Settle-Carlisle railway is more than just a route; it’s a journey through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the UK. Stretching across the Cumbrian fells and dreamy Dales, this scenic line offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and community spirit. For many, including myself, it’s a route that has been explored multiple times, but each visit brings new discoveries.
In my latest adventure, I decided to turn a simple trip into a three-day mini-holiday. Instead of starting from Leeds or Skipton, I opted for a full loop around the lakes, combining the Cumbrian Coast Line with the Settle-Carlisle. This allowed me to experience what I believe is the UK’s greatest landscape journey by rail.
A Scenic Route with Historical Significance
The journey began in Preston, heading towards Barrow and Whitehaven before reaching Carlisle. Two nights later, I continued south on the Settle-Carlisle railway. This line celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, a milestone that is especially meaningful given its near closure 40 years ago. Every crossing of the Ribblehead Viaduct is a testament to the resilience of rail enthusiasts.
Today, the Settle-Carlisle is a “community rail partnership,” with local volunteers playing a crucial role in supporting the line and its stations. The atmosphere on board was warm and welcoming, with a cup of tea and a calendar available for purchase to support their efforts.
Exploring the Natural Beauty
The line’s setting is nothing short of magnificent. Alighting at any station opens up opportunities for glorious walks, such as High Cup Nick, the Yorkshire Three Peaks, or the Dales Way to Sedbergh. On past trips, I’ve always made sure to watch the train depart, captivated by the sight of the little train against the backdrop of vast open landscapes.
As the journey progresses, the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic. Leaving Carlisle and Hadrian’s Wall country, the views transition from rugged to lush and green as we enter the Eden Valley. Small sandstone villages dot the low slopes, and the names of stations like Armathwaite, Lazonby, and Kirkoswald reflect Old Norse words for ford, copse, and meadow.
Approaching Appleby-in-Westmorland, known for its annual horse fair, I caught glimpses of the hilltops of the North Pennines National Landscape. South of here, the moors become more prominent, and the line rises all the way to Dent, England’s highest station. Gorse, blackthorn, and hawthorn are in bloom, creating a vibrant tapestry of colors.
A History of Resilience and Community
The Settle-Carlisle line was first proposed to parliament by the Midland Railway in 1866. When the company attempted to renege due to costs, the government forced it to proceed. Construction took seven years and involved 6,000 men. A memorial at St Leonard’s church in Chapel-le-Dale honors those who lost their lives during construction.
The line opened for goods traffic in August 1875, with passenger services beginning on 1 May 1876. At its peak, 90 trains passed through daily. Along the 72-mile route are over 20 viaducts and 14 tunnels, showcasing the engineering marvels of the time.
Celebrating the Legacy
The Settle-Carlisle line remains a beloved destination for rail enthusiasts. The debate among fans often centers on whether the view is better from the train or from the side of the track. While the viaducts are stunning from below, there’s an empowering feeling to riding across them.
British Rail announced plans to close the line in December 1983, but after a long campaign, it was saved in April 1989. Today, demand is strong, with Northern Rail recording 995,000 passenger journeys in 2025. Tickets start at £4.60, with special offers planned for the anniversary year.
Various celebrations are underway, including a Settle-Carlisle passport inviting passengers to collect brass rubbings at each station. A new play about the line will be premiered in July, and a walking festival will take place from 28 April to 4 May. An anniversary charter steam train will also run from Carlisle to York on 25 May.
Planning Your Journey
Open returns from Settle to Carlisle start from £27.80. To combine the Settle-Carlisle and Cumbrian Coast lines, the 280 bus runs between Skipton and Preston, allowing you to finish where you started.
For more information, visit settle-carlisle.co.uk.
