The Evolution of Bra Fitting: A New Approach to Comfort and Fit
Wearing the wrong bra size can lead to a range of issues, from back, shoulder, and neck pain to premature sagging. While many are aware of these risks, there seems to be an unspoken belief that a bra fitting is an even more daunting experience.
Recent reports suggest that eight out of 10 women are still wearing the wrong size, and Gen Z is increasingly opting for a braless look. In response, M&S has introduced a significant change to its in-store sizing experience. The high street store has eliminated the use of tape measures and trained 2,000 lingerie specialists to visually estimate a customer’s cup and band size instead.
This ‘no touch’ policy was successfully trialled within 23 stores before being rolled out nationwide. Experts agree that a highly-trained fitter can identify a poorly-fitting bra just by looking at it. Before the tape measure is even drawn, bra fitters are already looking for signs like slipping straps, gaping cups, and ‘breast tissue spillage’ that indicate you are wearing the wrong size.
Lesley Ann-Potter, who helps train staff at Boux Avenue, shared her insights with the Daily Mail. She explained that if your underband keeps riding up at the back, the straps keep slipping off your shoulders, or there’s a gap or empty space between your breasts and the cups, your bra might be too big. This usually means you’re not getting enough support, and the bra isn’t sitting securely against your body.
On the other hand, if you notice red marks on your shoulders or rib cage, or that your breasts are spilling out of the cups, you need to size up, said Lesley. In this case, the bra may be working too hard to contain your bust, leading to discomfort.
Milly Major, a senior design manager at Curvy Kate, highlighted some common mistakes women make when shopping for bras. One of the most frequent errors is fastening on the tightest hook when trying on bras, which totally alters the fit. Milly advised starting on the loosest hook and working your way in as the band gets looser with wear.
Another misstep is ‘forgetting to lean and lift,’ according to Milly. This is a crucial step as the bra cup is intended to encapsulate all the breast tissue, right up to under your armpits. The technique involves leaning over and lifting all your boob tissue into the cup of the bra, scooping it from the very back of the cup forward.
Milly also warned that many women erroneously believe that the way a bra fits in the changing room lasts forever. She explained that just like shoes, your bra will take a little time to break in. It should feel a little tight on your first try, but the right bra will mould to your body with more wear and should start to feel like a second skin.
Another reason so many women end up with the wrong size is that they assume ‘all bras are created equal.’ Milly cautioned that different stores or brands might design and fit slightly differently; no bra is the same, and you might find you are a slightly different size from brand to brand. Wire strength, coverage, and hook count can also vary, changing fit and comfort.
It’s equally important to remember that ‘different cup shapes will fit differently.’ A plunge may feel gappy and roomy at the top of the cup if you have bottom-heavy or more triangular boobs, whereas a balcony might require a cup size up for someone with full and very rounded boobs.
Curvy Kate Full Cup Side Support Bra
£32
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Curvy Kate Lace Moulded Balcony Bra
£38
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Curvy Kate SuperPlunge Strapless Multiway Bra
£42
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Boux Avenue Two-Hook Bra Extender
£6
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Milly recommends familiarising yourself with different cup shapes and learning what you like, adding that it can make a ‘world of difference’ to the way your bra feels.
The biggest mistake is avoiding bra fittings, Lesley added. When asked why most women are wearing improperly fitting bras, she said the ‘quick answer is not having ‘regular’ fittings.’ She recommends appointments every six months to one year as sizes fluctuate more frequently than most women realise.
Gaining or losing just a few pounds can have an impact on your bra size, as your bust is made from fat tissue. Your bra size can also change with age, Lesley added. In the early years, it is all about the development of your bust, very few people are the same size now as when they bought their first bra. But age can also be a factor when you are nearing menopause and affect your bra size.
Finally, exercise and hormonal birth control can also lead to fluctuations, so it is ‘always worth getting measured’ when you make any lifestyle changes.
How to Pick Your Perfect Bra
The bra fitting expert at Boux Avenue, Lesley-Ann Potter, has shared her best tips for picking the right bra for your shape:
- If you have a bottom-heavy chest, Lesley recommends buying a balconette style bra. This is because it lifts the bust and fills out the top
- The balconette is also a good pick if your breasts sit very close together, as it helps separate the bust
- On the other hand, if your breasts are naturally separated, a plunge can help pull the bust together
- If your bust is top heavy, a padded bra can help fill the gaps underneath
Boux Avenue Zinnia Balconette Bra
£45
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Boux Avenue Emma Lace Balconette Bra
£32
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Boux Avenue Suzette Lace Plunge Bra
£38
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Boux Avenue Comfort Microfibre Plunge Bra
£22
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