A Journey to the Far South Coast
There’s a different energy in the Far South Coast. These laid-back fishing towns still move at a slower pace, and when visiting, it only takes a few days for you to fall into rhythm with the sun and the tides. It was early February when my husband and I headed down in a No Birds rental car.
We were coming out of a long, humid Sydney summer and were desperate for clean ocean air and slower days. Our first stop planned on our coastal road trip was the town of Narooma, which is about a five-hour drive from Sydney. As we drove further south of the city, the traffic started to ease, and we were treated with glimpses of the sparkling blue Pacific Ocean stretching endlessly along the coastline.
Narooma is located on Yuin Country, on the tidal Wagonga Inlet. Here, life revolves around the water. It’s a place to eat fresh seafood and spend your days dipping in and out of the ocean. Any trip to Narooma should begin with a bowl of fresh oysters and a bottle of cold white wine at The Oyster Farmers Daughter, an oyster farm with an outdoor dining area overlooking the inlet. Or the Quarterdeck’s waterside setting is just as idyllic for an evening drink and dinner.
We stayed in one of the cabins at Surf Beach Holiday Park. A long way from the daggy caravan parks of our childhoods, these little white and blue weatherboard beach houses are nestled into the hill overlooking the waves at Narooma’s Main Beach.
From our cabin’s deck, which we struggled to pull ourselves away from, we watched dolphins in the water. Wildlife experiences can also be found at Narooma Bar breakwall, where a happy pod of Australian fur seals have taken up residence. It’s also worth taking a walk along the Mill Bay Boardwalk over Narooma’s mangroves to see a wondrous variety of sea creatures and bird life. Just 15 minutes south of Narooma, at the bottom of Mount Gulaga, are the charming villages of Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba.
Within these colourful heritage buildings, you’ll find pubs, cafes, artisan stores and a good old-fashioned lolly shop to please the kids. If it’s a sunny day, you also don’t want to miss a dip in the nearby Bermagui’s ocean pool. Our next stop was the bustling coastal town of Merimbula, where we rolled into the Hillcrest Motel. While the motel’s 1970s red brick exterior doesn’t give much away, the reimagined interiors ooze coolness.
With plush king-sized beds, soft white linens and fresh coastal decor, it feels more like a hotel – just one that you can park your car right in front of. But perhaps the best surprise is the sweeping view, which you can enjoy with a pair of (supplied) binoculars from your balcony. While you would be forgiven for spending most of your time lounging around Hillcrest’s swimming pool, there’s also a whole coastline of secluded beaches to explore between Merimbula and nearby Pambula.
Those wanting to get active can also hire a kayak or stand-up paddle board from Mitchies Jetty (which also happens to serve good coffee) and paddle around Merimbula’s tidal estuaries. Parents should also be warned that the kids probably won’t let you leave Merimbula without a trip to the town’s old-school Magic Mountain amusement park if it’s open while you’re there.
There are plenty of popular dining options around town but we kept it simple with fish and chips on the beach from Wheeler’s Seafood Restaurant in Pambula. Our final morning was spent at the sheltered Bar Beach, swimming in the ocean, sipping coffee in the sun and wishing we didn’t have to leave this special part of the world.
Plan Your Trip
Where to Stay
Surf Beach Holiday Park in Narooma (merivale.com/stay/surf-beach-holiday-park/) offers campsites and cabins overlooking Main Beach. In Merimbula, the reimagined Hillcrest Motel (hillcrestmerimbula.com) offers classic Australian charm with a modern twist.
Where to Eat
The Oyster Farmers Daughter, theoysterfarmersdaughter.com.au. Quarterdeck, merivale.com/venues/quarterdeck-narooma. Bar Superette, barsuperette.com. Dulcie’s Cottage, dulcies.com.au.
Where to Visit
Narooma Bar breakwall, Narooma to see a colony of fur seals. Bermagui Blue Pool, Bermagui, if you want to swim in a protected ocean pool and look out for passing whales, seals and dolphins. Visitnsw.com. Mitchies Jetty, Merimbula. Grab a coffee and hire a kayak. Mitchiesjetty.com.
Where to Shop
Central Tilba (tilba.com.au) for artisan stores, leather goods, art galleries and lolly shops. Time Machine Book Shop, Merimbula. Pick up a beach read from this secondhand bookstore.
Getting There
By car, the Far South Coast is around six hours from Sydney, three from Canberra and seven from Melbourne. From Sydney, make a pit stop in Murramarang National Park, where you can see hundreds of Eastern Grey kangaroos and swim at secluded beaches. From Melbourne, take a reviving stop at Metung Hot Springs. Sapphirecoast.com.au.
