A Hidden Gem on the Welsh Coast
On the southern edge of Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), Tywyn may not be the prettiest town on the Welsh coast, but the setting is hard to beat. Spread out across a wide belt of coastal plain, it is flanked by craggy hills, lakes, old slate mines, forests and spectacular river valleys. If you want pretty, head four miles south to Aberdyfi (or Aberdovey), a charming harbour town on the northern shore of the River Dyfi Estuary, where narrow, hilly streets slope down to a waterfront big on sailing, fishing, watersports and summer regattas.
The two towns are linked by a scenic coast road (and footpath) that skirts the Aberdovey Golf Club’s championship links and hugs the dunes on Cardigan Bay. On Tywyn’s seafront, cafés and caravan parks are strung along a windy prom, overlooking the Irish Sea and a stretch of surfy beach. In the old town – a mile inland – you will find a row of time-warp shops, chapels, ancient St Cadfan’s Church (honouring the 6th-century Welsh saint, and home to a stone with the earliest known inscription of the Welsh language) and a few surprises: a dragon-red cinema, a “weeping” statue, home-made honey ice cream and the celebrated Talyllyn Railway, recently reopened for the season (until the end of October).
To the north, Cadair Idris (Wales’s second-highest mountain) looms over the Dysynni Valley and the serenely beautiful Tal-y-llyn Lake; to the west are the rugged Cambrians. All this with far fewer crowds than the mountainous heart of Eryri proper.
Quick Guide
Nearest station: By train, take the Cambrian railway, which begins in Shrewsbury in Shropshire, and travels through the heart of Wales before merging with the scenic Cambrian Coast Line between Aberystwyth and Pwllheli.
Transport: Tywyn and Aberdyfi are six minutes away from each other by rail. A car is useful if you want to explore the landscapes of Eryri.
Stay: The Willow Hill, Trefeddian hotel
Eat: Coast, Saltmarsh Kitchen, Millie and Sid’s, Holgates’ ice cream
Drink: Retreat Bar
Shop: Pantri Dysynni, Braided Rug Company, Talyllyn Railway
Visit: Eryri National Park, River Dyfi Estuary, Cadair Idris, Castell y Bere, Blue Flag beach, Wales Coastal Path, Magic Lantern Cinema
Where to Stay
On a family-run farm, with sheep in the fields and spectacular views across the Dyfi Estuary, The Willow Hill offers three luxury “earth houses” tunnelled into a hillside above Aberdyfi. Roofed with a blanket of grassy turf, each pod has a glass-fronted living space with a kitchenette, private patio and hot tub. There are king-sized beds, velvety sofas (which convert to an extra bed), smart TVs and fluffy robes. From £275 (one bedroom) to £375 (two bedrooms) a night.
An alternative is the Trefeddian hotel, just north of Aberdyfi, which has family, seaview and accessible rooms from £272 B&B.
Day One
Up with the sun
Head for the remote Castell y Bere, the atmospheric ruins of a 13th-century fortress built by Llywelyn the Great on the ridge of a rocky outcrop, a nine-mile drive inland from Tywyn. In this peaceful, often-empty place, enjoy the morning silence, the whisper of history and the wild beauty of the Dysynni Valley.
Souvenir hunting
Combining farm shop, butcher and deli, Pantri Dysynni in Tywyn stocks tasty Welsh products including Snowdon Craft Seidr (cider), sparkling fruit presses from Radnorshire’s Heartsease Farm and Dylan’s chutneys and sauces.
In Aberdyfi, the Braided Rug Company is a family enterprise specialising in colourful rugs, baskets, table mats and other sustainable homewares, made in Bangladesh from natural organic jute to the company’s own designs.
Don’t miss
Travel by steam train on the narrow-gauge Talyllyn Railway. The first in the world to be taken over by a preservation society, the line initiated the heritage railway movement when it was reopened by volunteers in 1951 – and earlier this month it celebrated its 75th annual founders day. Trains run from Tywyn Wharf to Nant Gwernol, where you will encounter waterfalls, forest walks and old slate quarries (one-day hop-on-hop-off explorer tickets £29 for adults, £5 for children under 15).
Time for a sundowner
Underneath the clock tower in Tywyn’s Old Market Hall, the Retreat Bar is big on cocktails – classics such as espresso Martini or specials including “Cambrian crush” – and hand-made pizzas (including gluten-free), with a surfy, beach-hut vibe. It’s dog-friendly and there are tables outdoors too.
Dinner reservation
For delicious tapas (small plates from £5), fresh seafood dishes with “a local accent” and great service, book a table at Coast on the waterfront at Aberdyfi, where the sesame and honeyed beef is delicious – but the star of the show has to be the pan-fried hake in lobster bisque. From Thursday until Saturday, Saltmarsh Kitchen in Tywyn is also a good option, serving dishes influenced by a world of cultures including Mediterranean, Indian and English.
Day Two
Hit the beach
Running all the way from Tywyn to Aberdyfi, the Blue Flag beach is a glorious four-mile stretch of sand and shingle popular with surfers and jet-skiers. At the Tywyn end, much of the promenade is overlooked by car parks and caravans, but head south along the Wales Coastal Path are plenty of lonely spots among the dunes. Look out for porpoises and bottle-nose dolphins.
Lunch time
A high street café in a converted vintage hardware store, Coast restaurant’s Tywyn sister, Millie and Sid’s is a top choice for breakfast, lunch or coffee and home-made cakes as well as hearty Sunday lunches. Fisherman’s stew, mushroom wellington and marinated Welsh beef with duck-fat roasties are among the menu’s regulars.
Time to relax
Check out the Magic Lantern Cinema; Tywyn’s vividly painted former assembly rooms, dating to the late 19th century, is now a multi-use venue that was recently crowned Cinema of the Year at the British Independent Film Awards. As well as regular movie nights and family-friendly matinées, the programme includes quiz nights and live music, plus food and drinks at the bar and a secret garden.
A final treat
The shop has an odd industrial-estate vibe, but Holgates’ ice cream is made fresh every day, using a honey-based recipe and served in a choice of two flavours that change regularly: pink guava, for example, or whisky. Enjoy a cone or a tub on an outdoor table with views of Cadair Idris.
Three Things You Might Not Know About Tywyn & Aberdyfi…
1) In St Cadfan’s Church, a stone effigy of 14th-century Welsh poet Gruffudd ab Adda is said to “weep” during wet weather (a flaw in the masonry is responsible).
2) On the beach just north of Tywyn, the remnants of a prehistoric forest – preserved in anaerobic peat – can sometimes be seen at low tide.
3) The first Outward Bound school opened in Aberdyfi, in 1941. The organisation has since hosted more than 1.2 million young people.
