Laura Craik: John Lewis Strikes Back at M&S with Topshop Hire

A New Era for John Lewis

In the ever-changing world of fashion, where trends shift as quickly as the seasons, the appointment of new creative directors has become a common occurrence. This trend is not limited to high-end fashion houses but is also evident on the high street. John Lewis, one of the UK’s most respected retailers, has recently made a significant move by appointing Jacqui Markham as its new creative director of fashion.

Markham will be responsible for overseeing the 162-year-old store’s women’s, men’s, and childrenswear collections. She replaces Queralt Ferrer, who held the position for four years. Ferrer, 52, previously served as women’s design director at Marks & Spencer, while Markham brings a more fashion-forward background to the role.

Before joining John Lewis, Markham was the creative director at Whistles, a premium high street chain, since April 2025. Prior to that, she was global design director at Topshop and design director at Asos. Her extensive experience in the fashion industry has positioned her well for this new challenge.

The appointment of Markham signals a strategic shift for John Lewis, aiming to compete more effectively with its rival, M&S. M&S has been gaining momentum with its recent womenswear collections, which have received positive feedback from both customers and fashion critics.

As part of an £800 million turnaround programme led by managing director Peter Ruis, John Lewis has added 100 new fashion brands to its roster. This includes an exclusive collection by Mulberry, further enhancing the retailer’s appeal.

Markham’s career has been marked by several key roles. She worked under Sir Philip Green, the disgraced former boss of Arcadia, during her 18 years at Topshop. She graduated with first class honours in fashion design from Northumbria University in 1993. Her time at Topshop saw her rise to the position of design director in 2011 before she left in 2015 to take on the same role at Asos.

An insider described Markham as having “impeccable taste” and credited her with bringing “cool” to Asos. She shifted the brand’s focus from dull dresses to affordable outfits that fashion insiders wanted to wear.

Markham returned to Topshop in 2015, where she continued as design director until 2019. During her tenure, she oversaw successful initiatives such as London Fashion Week shows, the NewGen sponsorship of emerging designers, and a three-year collaboration with Kate Moss.

While Markham may not be as well-known as some of her counterparts, such as Jonathan Anderson, the new creative director of Dior, her influence on the average woman’s wardrobe has been significant.

Her first task involves deeper investment in John Lewis’s own-label lines. This includes the launch of its biggest-ever cashmere collection this autumn, with the aim of boosting sales by 20 per cent.

Next week, the retailer will officially launch an exclusive capsule collection by Amanda Wakeley, a designer beloved by Catherine, Princess of Wales. With a proven track record of making style accessible, Markham believes that quality at an affordable price should be available to everyone, regardless of their status.

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