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Hidden gem in Croatia: $2.50 wine and four island getaways

Discovering Rijeka: Croatia’s Hidden Coastal Gem

In the early 2000s, Croatia was a well-kept secret among travelers. With its pristine beaches and unspoiled landscapes, it remained off the tourist radar, offering a tranquil escape for those seeking adventure without the crowds. However, this changed dramatically when Croatia joined the European Union in 2013. The country quickly became a must-visit destination, drawing thousands of tourists to popular spots like Split and Hvar. As a result, many once-quiet regions now face overcrowding, similar to other over-touristed European destinations.

Despite this trend, not all of Croatia has been affected equally. In the northern part of the Adriatic Sea lies Rijeka, a coastal city that remains relatively unknown to most international travelers. This hidden gem offers the same breathtaking views of the sea and the scenic beauty of the Dinaric Alps, but without the overwhelming presence of tourists.

Rijeka is located on Kvarner Bay in western Croatia and is often referred to as the “gateway” to several Croatian islands, including Krk, Cres, Rab, and Losinj. Situated about five hours from Split, the city provides an ideal base for exploring the region’s natural wonders and cultural attractions.

One of the highlights of visiting Rijeka is its affordability. A glass of wine can be enjoyed for around €2.50, making it a budget-friendly destination for food lovers. The city is also known for its traditional dishes, such as Peka, a slow-cooked fish dish that features octopus, garlic, olive oil, and wild vegetables. These local delicacies offer a taste of authentic Croatian cuisine.

In addition to its culinary offerings, Rijeka was awarded the title of “European Capital of Culture” in 2020, recognizing its rich cultural heritage and modern developments. Among the notable attractions is the Rijeka City Museum, affectionately called the “Sugar Palace.” This beautifully restored building showcases the city’s baroque architecture and historical significance.

For travelers looking to explore the surrounding islands, Rijeka is an excellent starting point. Flights from London to Rijeka start at just £17 each way in June with Ryanair, making it a cost-effective option for island-hopping. From Rijeka, visitors can easily reach several of Croatia’s best-kept secrets:

  • Krk: Accessible by bus, this island offers a mix of beaches, vineyards, and pastel-colored towns. A one-way trip costs between €6–€10.
  • Cres: Reachable by ferry, this island is known for its rugged scenery and secluded coves. A round-trip ticket costs approximately €6–€10.
  • Rab: A catamaran ride for €10–€15 takes travelers to this island, famous for its rare sandy beaches and lively medieval center.
  • Lošinj: Known for its dolphin-watching opportunities, pine forests, and wellness retreats, this island can be reached for €7–€9 by catamaran.

For those planning a future visit, Marella Cruises has announced plans to return to Rijeka in summer 2026. The cruise will offer a seven-night Adriatic Affair round trip from Dubrovnik aboard the Marella Explorer 2, with prices starting at £1,610 per person.

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